Additionally, the exhaust temperature being extremely high, the unburned fuel explodes at the contact of the exhaust tubes. When the spark plug fires, the exhaust valve is starting to open due to the ignition delay mentioned above. The ignition being severely delayed, the air/fuel mixture reaches the exhaust tubes mostly unburned. This results in air/fuel mixture that keeps getting in the combustion chambers when the driver no longer accelerates. The inlet butterfly is kept slightly open or an air injector, bypassing the inlet butterfly, is used to maintain air supply to the engine. When the driver lifts his foot from the gas pedal the ignition timing is altered with sometimes 40° or more of delay (retard) and the intake air and fuel supply mixture is made richer. The faster and stronger you can move the snow the faster the sled gets moving. Racing snow is all about track speed and moving snow. On snow/hardpack, either one 2-step or antilag, was always faster then without it. With new picks and good Ice, I could launch the shit out of the antilag and had to hold on real good!! My sled built about 6-8lbs boost, running a stm clutched right would still hold the belt. On my sled with worn picks the Antilag was a bit to much on ice, The 2-step worked better. I can say, on Ice with decent traction the 2-step will gain 1-2 sleds lengths right out the gate. I didn't abuse it though, once or twice for show, and the rest was at the line. I have no more info on TD's tune for 2-step or antilag other then I used it all last winter with ZERO issues. The TD tuned antilag(which I use) changes timing/fueling etc. The Z1's are known to have the wrist pin issue which it is a touch short and moves around and knocks out the circlip. I ran the MSD on 2 yamaha apex turbos with no problems, but yamahas don't have the wrist pin issue. MSD, and the old D&D stutter using the Temp sensor resistors, created heat without altering timing, this could cause detonation and rattle the wrist pins, causing failure. You are creating heat and that brings detno. With the Turbo 4 strokes, you want to build heat in the exhaust by letting some fuel into the exhaust and backfiring, spinning the turbo creating boost before engagement. The Idea of a 2 stroke stutter is to hold RPM. Sure in a gerneral statement "studder" can be hard on motors but a true antilag set up properly with precise timing control designed for the appliction is very safe if not abbused. And what makes that more dangerous is that it is not presice timing control, it is more rpm control and the most dangerous it is end user adjustable The severe harmonics causes the circlips to fall out.This does not happen with the TD tune because if it did the knock light woud be on right.Making a direct comparison to a say msd launch control to control ign and then using an outside source to adjust the fuel delivery is not NOT anti lag.Now the fuel and timing delivery is all subject to the guys setting it up.It is a rpm control influenced by a fuel control. Wrist pin or circlip damage on this motor is usually caused by detonation. Rideability will not be affected while the check engine light is on.You definatly don't want to abuse it,but I was no way insinuating the TD antilag was dangerous.There also needs to be a little clarification on the generic word "studder".That term does not apply to a true anti lag file.A true antilag file changes the event timing and the fuel delivery.It does not just limit rpm.By tuning this to a precise target as Ben describes, the exhaust is then super heated and boost is created quicker.The danger on a true anti lag if abused is the superheating of the valves. This will clear itself after TWO ride cycles. NOTE: All 2021+ models will have a temporary check engine light on after the ECU is powered up outside of the bike for flashing.
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